I am looking to get some opinions on these two compression drivers. The JBL 2446 versus the 2447.

I am itching to build three nice two way, high efficiency speakers for my ht. These will be used with either the JBL 2226 or the AE TD15M for the bottom octaves. I am also debating on using either the Seos 24 or the JBL 2384 waveguides, depending on which compression driver I choose. These will be installed in a baffle wall, and might use an active crossover as I have the necessary amplifier channels and DSP units to do so, or, if I can find someone that would be willing to assist on the crossover, I may go passive. Not entirely sure yet. The 2446 is a 2' and the 2447 is a 1.5'.

I will at some point add a Be diaphragm to all 3. I am guessing that the 2447 will be slightly better on the top end being that it is a 1.5' versus a 2'? What are the pro's and cons of using one over the other?

I can get the 2447's for under $175 each and the 2446's for around the same price. I like the idea of using a JBL 2384 horn with the 2447 as the horn is relatively cheap and can be shipped and received in less than a week compared to the Seos 24, which would take a long time and cost more. How do you guys feel about these possibilities and what do you recommend? Yeah, I have my surrounds crossed at 1.5khz and unless at the extreme spl it is fine.

The point being that there is no advantage to a 2inch if the 1.5 crosses just as low. I like the 2447 better overall myself.

They are very heavy and huge though! He said he wants to cross a JBL 2226 or a TD15M. Both 15' woofers. Ideally you want to cross to a 15' woofer before cone break up becomes a problem, and you want to cross in a manner that allows a good blending at the crossover point both on and off axis. All woofers start beaming (sound straight out like a head lamp) when the frequency wave size is start to equal the woofer size. Smaller woofers this happens higher up, bigger the woofer the lower this happens. For a 15' ideally you'd want to cross at 800hz or less generally speaking- so my comment was mostly based on this but I didn't explain why I just arbitrarily picked 800hz of the top of my head so I can see where the confusion could be.

That was my mistake. Since the CD he is looking at should both be able to handle this, I would probably lean towards the 1.5' because I feel like the 1.5' would have a better top end than the 2' (at least in theory).

Most 2' can't reach up high to 20khz. While personally I don't always think you need all the way to 20khz, anything short of 18khz might be 'pro audio' sounding since pro audio products often roll off above 10khz because they use big CD's that don't reach up very well. Also, those highs can be damaging at loud volumes so it's not a good idea to blast high frequencies very loud at people, which is another reason why a lot of pro audio stuff rolls off on top. Often some wave guides will also lose directivity or collapse below a certain frequency so you could use this to account for the crossover blend too. Once you get to sub 1khz crossovers on wave guides the area where the wave guide will lose it's pattern control should be also accounted for. It takes a big wave guide to cross really low. Lot's of stuff to consider.

The more I learn about audio the more I realize it's all about trade offs. If you want a low freq, you lose some on the top.

If you want a great top, you lose some ability on the bottom. It's this constant give and take of compromises and the endless challenge of maximizing everything that makes DIY audio so much fun. Would't it just be so easy if there was a driver that did great 20hz-20khz in one driver, point source, and phase perfect.? The only design I know that even comes close to something like that is a synergy horn. I haven't used either one, but they are both 4' diaphragms, so low-end response should be equal. The 1.5' exit should have a bit more consistent off-axis response, the 2' a bit less throat distortion at truly ear-bleed levels (in a home environment, your ears may add more HD than the horns).

In computer sims, I've found larger throats tend to have more internal HF cancellations than smaller throats -not a given, but a tendency- so the 1.5' exit may take better advantage of Be diaphragms when you get them. So, IF you can find the HxV pattern you want in a 1.5' horn with no diffraction bumps, that may be the better set of trade-offs.

Ok, so to take Tuxs' advice and pick the horn or waveguide first, how do you fellows think the Seos24 would work compared to a JBL 2384 or 2352? The main drawback that I see with the Seos24 is the length of time it would take to order and receive, which, it is my understand that it could be weeks or months coming from Poland, and being the cost, which at $250 each is pretty high, compared to the JBL2384 which I can get for around $100. So in your opinions, how would the Seos24 perform versus a JBL2384? I am leaning towards the 2447 on a JBL 2384, but, I have yet to speak withor read anyone's opinion who have heard both, and MKtheater's comments about how awesome his 2446 sounds has me thinking that if I did end up going the 2447 route, I might wonder 'what if?' Ok, so to take Tuxs' advice and pick the horn or waveguide first, how do you fellows think the Seos24 would work compared to a JBL 2384 or 2352?

The main drawback that I see with the Seos24 is the length of time it would take to order and receive, which, it is my understand that it could be weeks or months coming from Poland, and being the cost, which at $250 each is pretty high, compared to the JBL2384 which I can get for around $100. So in your opinions, how would the Seos24 perform versus a JBL2384? I am leaning towards the 2447 on a JBL 2384, but, I have yet to speak withor read anyone's opinion who have heard both, and MKtheater's comments about how awesome his 2446 sounds has me thinking that if I did end up going the 2447 route, I might wonder 'what if?' I have the 2447. I have them on 2352 horns. The 2384 is a much bigger horn being 30 inches wide. The 2384 horn is 1.5' entry (as is the 2352) but there are many 1.5' throat JBL CD's- 2430, 2431, 2432, 2435 (Be), 2447, 2450-SL, 2451, 2452SL just to name a few.

It's a nice compromise between the 1' and 2' versions. Maybe that's why JBL kept refining them. That's what so much fun about JBL! Only the 4' versions can be fitted with a Truex (Materion) Be phragms. I wrote them recently and asked about the cheaper version as well as the 3' ones. He ducked the question. I don't think they will ever happen.

I realize that the 2384 is huge, but, how does it compare, in directivity, polars, and how low does it hold the pattern compared to the Seos24? The 2384 can be had from JBL directly for $135 each, which is over $115 dollar cheaper than each Seos24. Looks like I will definitely be going with the 2447! If it extends higher in frequency and has less overall distortion in the top end then it would seem like a 'no brainer' compared to the 2446. Speaking of which, are there any categories, at all, that the 2446 does better than the 2447? Not sure if you are aware that the 2447 doesn't directly mount on either the Seos or 2384; you will have to drill new holes or clamp the CD. 2447 studs are on 4.5' diameter and not 4'.

They will however bolt on to 2352. Hmm.ok, I don't mind drilling holes in the 2384, or Seos24, but will the 2447 otherwise fit on a 2384 or Seos24? That is, assuming that holes will have to be drilled. How about the inner throat entrance and mounting area on the 2384?

Will it be compatable with the 2447? I am heavily leaning towards the 2384, if it will work!

So the decision has been made with regards to the waveguide. I will be ordering three 2384's on Friday of this week. I am not sure if the guy who had the sweet deals on the 2447's might happen to still have them. Either way, it will take me at least another week past this Friday to afford the three 2447's. If anyone reading this might happen to have one, two or three 2447's to get rid of, please hit me up!

Realistically I should have all of the necessary components by the end of April. Now, who wants to design the crossover for me?👀. Speaking of the crossover, with a JBL 2447 on a JBL 2384 horn crossing over to a 2226, what would be the ideal crossover point? I would really like to do at least 650hz to 750hz.

I will of course employ someone more knowledgable than myself for building the passive xovers or perhaps aid in setting up active crossovers. I have a UMM-6 mic, as well as the necessary equipment for active crossovers.

So if someone wanted to help me get situated with taking the necessary measurements while perhaps Skyping or talking via cell phones that would be great. Speaking of the crossover, with a JBL 2447 on a JBL 2384 horn crossing over to a 2226, what would be the ideal crossover point? I would really like to do at least 650hz to 750hz. I will of course employ someone more knowledgable than myself for building the passive xovers or perhaps aid in setting up active crossovers.

I have a UMM-6 mic, as well as the necessary equipment for active crossovers. So if someone wanted to help me get situated with taking the necessary measurements while perhaps Skyping or talking via cell phones that would be great. I prefer active crossovers wherever possible. The 2384 will have slightly improved lower midrange performance when installed an a baffle wall. You can use this to your advantage.

JBL recommends a 630Hz crossover point when active and (I think) at 24dB/Oct. I know I have run higher order filters before. There is some HF beaming with both drivers. I suggest some tow-in on the L & R speakers.

Do not overdrive your 2447. The RMS power is only 100watts. You will find at 100 Watts, they are quite loud in a smaller room. The EQ calibration will depend on your screen material. I usually start with an on axis with the horn near field (6ft) measurement at about 1watt. What filters to use will depend on what DSP you are using. If you are limited to standard HP/LP and parametric, then the JBL recommendations will work as a starting point.

I always suggest do as little as necessary. It is easy to over filter. Refer to this for a starting point: See page 38. I see they recommend a a split crossover. That could change if you are not trying to max out the SPL. After you get a good baseline, on each speaker system, move the mic to golden seat and repeat.

Some minor tweaks in time alignment will be needed. I prefer active crossovers wherever possible.

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The 2384 will have slightly improved lower midrange performance when installed an a baffle wall. You can use this to your advantage. JBL recommends a 630Hz crossover point when active and (I think) at 24dB/Oct. I know I have run higher order filters before. There is some HF beaming with both drivers. I suggest some tow-in on the L & R speakers. Do not overdrive your 2226.

The RMS power is only 100watts. You will find at 100 Watts, they are quite loud in a smaller room. The EQ calibration will depend on your screen material. I usually start with an on axis with the horn near field (6ft) measurement at about 1watt.

What filters to use will depend on what DSP you are using. If you are limited to standard HP/LP and parametric, then the JBL recommendations will work as a starting point. I always suggest do as little as necessary. It is easy to over filter. Refer to this for a starting point: See page 38.

I see they recommend a a split crossover. That could change if you are not trying to max out the SPL. After you get a good baseline, on each speaker system, move the mic to golden seat and repeat. Some minor tweaks in time alignment will be needed. So you recommend a starting point of 630hz, assuming that I go active? What would be your recommended crossover frequency for passive?

I might try passive for the center and active for the left and right channels as I recently upgraded my two sub amps from iNuke1000dsp models that I bought before I really knew what I was doing to inuke6000's so I could potentially use the dsp1000's for the active left and right channels, temporarily of course, until I can afford better amps and DSP. You recommend a 24db/oct lp and hp on eavh driver? Could you help me with this? My screen s going to be a DIY acoustically transparent material, perhaps spandex?

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I haven't yet researched as to how to build an acoustically transparent screen. Any suggestions there? Will you have the 2447H (8 ohm)?

You will also need to know which 2226 driver you are using. I will assume 2226H (8 ohm). See here: How to use these calculations will require some additional knowledge about your systems that I do not have. Others here may have built crossovers for this driver arrangement.

As far as the screen material, there are whole discussion boards on that. It is a fine balancing act. Too thin and you can see through. Too thick and you loose a bunch of treble. Some time ago I used a very cheap king sized cotton sheet, steamed smooth. Worked great for the year or so I used it.

Will you have the 2447H (8 ohm)? You will also need to know which 2226 driver you are using. I will assume 2226H (8 ohm). See here: How to use these calculations will require some additional knowledge about your systems that I do not have. Others here may have built crossovers for this driver arrangement.

Unfortunately online calculators like this don't work as we would hope. For example, this is what the calculator gives me for a recent speaker I built using the second order LR option and the L-pad. I was even generous and flipped the tweeter polarity because it's second order, which the calculator did not indicate. It was even worse before. Please don't spend big bucks on nice gear and then cripple them with such a bad XO. A proper XO requires real anechoic measurements with real impedance data with full XO CAD.